Last Up date
8th/June/07 Voyage Log

Voyage Log 2007 Season

June 5th/6th  ,07
Blanquilla Island to Los Roques, Venezuela

Changing plans, we decided to make the 120mile downwind passage to Los Roques, and then stop at Tortuga on the way back to Puerto La Cruz. Delaying departure for a day waiting for weather we got underway at noon ...planning to arrive noon the following day. Winds were forcast for 20 to 25...6 to 8ft seas.... What we got was very different. It was our all time most uncomfortable passage ever!...it felt like we were in a washing machine on the tumble cycle for 25 hours. The winds were as low as 8 and as high as 25 within a 10 minute period...the swell ranged from 6 to 8 ft, up to 12ft...at a 4 second interval. We got rolled by the swell on every point of sail....with the wind at 090 degrees, we tried 270...then 240...then 300 degrees...it was a long night,. We had to shorten our 3 hours on/off down to 2 hours as being at the helm was so exhausting...As we pulled in between the reefs out of the swell, and finally dropped anchor, I was amazed that the boat was still all in one piece...and nothing broken...after a 5 minute clean up, everything was back to normal...and we had our customary arrival G&T...ahhh it was good!
After weaving our way through the reefs with Hiro spotting on the bow sprit...we anchored in a lagoon in front of another stunning white beach...and had a great sleep!
The next morning we motored around to the to town anchorage to do check-in...the whole town, including airport is about 1/2 mile long, on the beach, no cars...and sand roads!

May 30th  ,07
Juan Greigo to Blanquilla Island, Venezuela

For the 60 mile trip we made an early start, pulling anchor at 6am...we were hoping to make the trip in 10 hours if we could average 6 knots. The first two hours we were making good speed, then the wind just died....we had to motor the rest of the way, to get in before dusk...it was a long day!
We dropped anchor at 6pm....in front of a white sand beach with crystal clear waters......the next morning the views were spectacular....the beach and reefs just meters away....snorkeling was a delight...as was watching the fishermen work...half the men in the water with mask and fins, managing the nets...the rest in numerous boats.

All were very friendly, working right beside us..the swimmers stopping at the boat for a drink of fresh water...and then later coming alongside looking for a beer or smokes....unfortunately Hiro was on his last pack, and we were out of beer, but they gave us a nice looking fish anyway!...it was yummy!

As the sun was going down we were both surprised to see Second Wind approaching...I called on the radio to let them know we were happy to see them...and they came and  anchored beside us.
The following day we waited for an apology from Frankie...that never came...
Next morning we moved down the coast  a couple of miles to Americano Bay....After first visiting on foot, we had decided to take the boat in and anchor in the center of the horse shoe bay....the surrounding reefs were the best we'd seen.

Hiro couldn't sleep with the noise of the waves crashing into the rocks all around us, so mid afternoon we retured to the beach anchorage after just one night. The German boat beside us asked us to join in a beach BBQ with another British boat....we baked potatoes and onion bread on sticks, sausages...green beans and couscous....red wine and then desert....it was a great evening, sitting on the beach in front of a blazing fire!

May 25th  ,07
Porlamar to Juan Greigo, Margarita Island, Venezuela

The week has just flow by....a couple of trips to the supermarket and it feels like we are ready to get going again. Gave our boat papers to Marina Juan to organize clearance for Los Roques on Thursday...for an early morning departure on Friday.  Met a local Venezuelan (also called Juan)...who took us out to eat local food...and then joined us for the sail around to Juan Greigo....fortunately the weather was kind for his first sailing experience!

We dropped anchor at 1pm,  and then went ashore to eat together with Second Wind....had a lovely lunch at a beachside restaurant, and then ventured further into town...just 30 seconds walk down the road we found a bar run by a Dutch and English couple...that had a free wifi connection...it was perfect....
The next morning we bought breakfast at the local bakery and then went to the bar for coffee and orange juice...as we did our e-mail....

The guide book had said there was a fuel dock...and there was, but reserved for local fishermans use only...so we took a taxi to the closest gas station...I was shocked at how cheap the fuel was...for 30 Gallons of diesel I paid the equivalent of 2 (two) US $...and for 5 gallons of the best grade gasoline one dollar...the taxi fare for the round trip was $7

The saddest part of trip so far was leaving Terry and Frankie...on not the best of terms...Frankie's emotional state had deteriorated from the usual pissy mood every now and then, to a constant flow of rudeness and child like tantrums...
Hiro and I had simply had enough...even with Terry's apologies...we decided to leave without them.

May 15th  ,07
Isle de Coche, Venezuela...back to Porlamar, Margarita Island, Venezuela

We arrived back in Porlamar at 11.30 am, after a 6.30 start....beating into the wind was slow going. Out of fresh water, we waited for the water boat to make it rounds, then filled the tanks...$13 for 110 gallons of drinking water....and then had a long shower!  The boat has never been so dirty...it hasn't rained for well over a month....and being anchored on the lee side of a sandy beach, on an island with red dirt....the whole boat is red/brown....even after washing with the sea water wash down hose, the boat still looks dirty....the lines, the rigging,the stainless.... everything is red/brown.

Away from a wifi connection for such a long time, its good to be connected to the rest of the world again...and to be able to talk to friends...

After re-stocking our food supplies, we should be here for a few more days, before we head off for Juan Greigo (Margarita), then Blanquilla, Tortuga, Los Roques, The Aves, Bonaire and Aruba....
May not have wifi again untill we get to Bonaire...

April  30th ,07
Margarita Island, Venezuela to Isle de Coche, Venezuela

As we rounded the sand bank, well marked on the charts, we changed from a liesurely wing and wing downwind sail... to on the beam...with full sail up, we were close hauled in 23 knots of wind, very brisk ...and it just kept building...
We were definately approaching one of the kite boarding mecca's of the world...we counted 23 kites flying as we approached the beach of while sand that stretched for a good 2 miles.

We anchored in front of the beach resorts...as Hiro was glued with the binoculars to the kite boarders....it wasnt long before we'd bought one...and we were both taking lessons...after 3 days with an instructor we got the bascis....then went shopping for our own equipment....over $2,000 later, we're all set!

But...its not as easy as it looks...after another week of practicing with our new kite, we were just about ready to give up, when we started to get the hang of it!
After 2 weeks of punishment, I was happy to return to margarita for a rest.

April  21st ,07
Los Testigos, Venezuela to Margarita Island, Venezuela

The trip to Margarita Island was a daysail, so we left at first light....hoping to arrive before dusk.
Again, Second Wind left 30 mintes before us...(ok, so i'm not a morning person!)...this time as we passed them, they unfurled their mainsail, so for the most part we made the trip together...in visual contact, as we approached the Venezuelan coast.
We were both anchored amongst the 70 or so boats in the Porlamar anchorage by mid afternoon...we leaned the fist night that the anchorage can be very rolly...it was almost as bad as Prickly Bay in Grenada...
After setting a bridle on the anchor, we soon got used to the bobbing...up and down motion...a lot better than side to side!
One of the locals confirmed on the radio that we couldnt check in until Monday ....so we decided to go ashore and explore...soon we were taking a taxi to a shopping mall...sunday morning...and with no local money. Luckily Terry had a credit card with him....not knowing the exchange rate...he got 50,000 bolivars to split between us....(sounds like a lot)...but after buying an ice cream each, Hiro and I were almost out of money again!

Fortunately we found a cambio/exchange place at the mall, and changed some US $...

The shopping mall was a nice as I've seen anywhere in the world....every bit as good as a mall in Europe, the US...or even Waikiki in Hawaii..(that caters to the Japanese).....from Gap, Abercrombie & Fitch to Cartier and Rolex...everything is available.

Our first trip to a supermarket was no less spectacular...the selection of foods was amazing...so far...we're loving Margarita...and spending lots of money!

The check in procedures were not cheap, US$ 70 to enter, 30 to depart....but at less than a dollar for 4 beers, and enough steak for 2 meals each for Hiro and I for 2 bucks, ...we are eating very well here....fuel is also cheap...I paid 7 dollars for 15 gallons, compared to 4 dollars a gallon in most of the islands...

With the boat fully stocked with food...and drinks...after 2 weeks of shopping, and more shopping...we decided to move on again...

April  18th ,07
Prickly Bay Grenada to Los Testigos, Venezuela

Finally, after what seemed like endless preparation...it was time to leave Grenada. After toying with the idea of going north, going south, going north...after 4 weeks, we made a decision to go south!
Worried about Hiro's visa requirements for entry into Venezuela, we visited thier Consulate...we were told he needed a pre issued visa that would take 3 days to process, at a cost of US$ 30,  and that as we were entering the county by private vessel, that I would also need a pre issued visa....at US$ 30....When I asked about our American friends on Second Wind, I was told that they would also need a pre issued visa, and needed to have their pets papers certified...all at an additional cost...of course.
This was all so contrary to what we had heard from other cruisers, who had visited without any pre issed paperwork.
Hiro checked on line, and found that he did not need a pre issued visa at all...other Japanese visitors who were fully prepared had had their papers laughed at...and told they were not needed....so we proceeded empty handed.

It was tough to say goodbye to friends...leaving Dwight and Stephanie, and Howard, Suzanne and baby Sam...we were happy that Terry and Frankie would be making the trip with us.
Not wanting to arrive in Los Tostigos too early, we decided to leave Prickly Bay in the dark at 8pm. With the down wind currents, we were thinking the 87 mile trip would take about 12  to 14 hours.

As we pulled out in the dark...it was quite a job to get the sails up and trimmed, the wind blowing low 20's gusting to 25 or 26...and get the boat balanced under sail....the fist 10 minutes, I was wishing we'd left during daylight hours...

It was the first time we'd had the boat under full sail in over 6 months....the main had its first reef in...mizzen and jib up too...

Soon we were steady and making 7 knots.....Second Wind had left about 30 minutes before us...but within the hour we had caught up to them....as the hours passed our speed increased to 8, often 9 knots. As we changed watch at 6am I called Second Wind...(as the sun came up with them nowhere in sight I was worried...we were buddy boating for added security!)....they were 45 miles to our waypoint at Los Testigos...we had 25 miles to go....somehow we had put 20 miles between us overnight!

After scouting all the anchorages, we returned to the one closest to the town (population 60)...to check in with the coast guard...and dropped anchor at 10am....
After a very wet dinghy ride to see the coast guard, who checked our departure papers from Grenada...we were given permission to stay for 48hours, before proceeding to an official check-in point ...in our case, Margarita Island.

Second Wind arrived 4 hours later, they had been sailing without their main sail up, because of the gusting winds.

Los Testigos was so refreshing....just no people, stunning white sandy beaches to ourselves...it was so good to be cruising again!...after a real good nights sleep, the following morning we moved from the "town"...down to the beach for our second night there.

April 8th ,07
Prickly Bay Grenada to Hog Island Grenada

This is actually our second trip around to Hog Island…Prickly Bay, whilst convenient for the bus into town, marina, shops etc…. it can be very rolly…

Hog Island anchorage is so well protected by reefs, that even in the strongest winds, its always calm…

The wind generator is fixed, and is making lots of power again, winds have been 20 knots for the past couple of days, but this anchorage is flat calm…we decided to spend Easter weekend here, as everything on the island is closed till Wednesday anyway.

World cup cricket is starting 4/10, at the new stadium funded and built by the Chinese.

March 19th ,07
Hiro arrives in Grenada…

By the time Hiro arrived, the boat was looking good, most of  the teak was done, new davits had been fitted, the only big job left to do was repair the wind generator.

We knew from the last time we changed the bearings, it was a pig of a job, so we were hoping it was something else, and that we wouldn’t have to remove the whole unit from the mizzen mast….no such luck…we changed the bearings, but couldn’t get the alignment right…and the blades weren’t spinning freely…so after trouble shooting with the manufacturer in Trindad, we had to remove the whole unit and order a replacement housing.

Jan 31st ,07
Des returned to Grenada…

After being away for 6 months, it was a good feeling to be back in Grenada…and to see Maranatha bobbing about on the water….I was a little apprehensive… as if I’d thought I was going to be away for such a long time, I would have hauled the boat out of the water, and left her in a boat yard….but plans change…..

So here I was, back after 6 months away…

Dwight (who did a great job taking care of Maranatha for me while I was away) picked me up at the airport, and as we drove into the Marina…Terry and Frankie of Second Wind were sitting at the Tikki Hut bar waiting for me…it was like seeing family again….after a few too many drinks…they insisted that I stay on their boat that night, had a bed made up for me, fed me breakfast and coffee the next morning…and then took me over to Maranatha…

As I stepped down into the boat in the daylight, I could see how dirty she was, and the smell was just about enough to knock me over….I quickly opened all the hatches and aired the boat…

A week later I was still cleaning the boat….but slowly she was coming back to life!

The heavy rains, (and leaking windows) had caused to damage to the galley counter top, but apart from that she was in remarkably good shape…the bearings on the wind generator had ceased up…and my dinghy was just about dead…but everything else was in good working order…..after laundering everything, and throwing away a lot of old damp clothes it was time to start on the jobs that needed doing.

The fist thing I did was buy a new dinghy…well, a used new dinghy, Terry was buying a new one, not liking the one he’d bought 8 months earlier in St.Martin…the timing was perfect for me, so I bought his hard bottomed Caribe..

Its far superior to our old soft bottomed dinghy, but far heavier too….the next thing on my list was new davits, to be able to pull the heavier dinghy out of the water.

After cleaning the carburetor  a couple of times, finally got the 8hp Nissan 4 stroke to run again….

As the weeks passed, I wanted to get off the rented mooring ($140 US, a month) and back on my (free) anchor.

The bottom of the boat was like a marine park….after 3 days of scraping…the hull and prop  was finally clean, and the boat ready to move.

Once at anchor away from other boats, and as the rainy season was coming to an end, I focused on doing the teak…running my little Honda generator allowed me to get thru the sanding quite quickly….I think it was the second day, leaning over the rail with electric sander in hand, that I popped my back out of alignment.

After a very painful journey to the hospital…and then a muscle relaxant injection…my spine was twisted back into shape…as I yelled and screamed at the doctor!…but as he promised, two days later, I was good to go!

All in all I think this lifestyle is agreeing with me…it was first visit to a doctor in over 3 years!