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April
9th ,07
South from St. Lucia to Grenada
After
leaving St.Lucia in June, we bypassed St.Vincent and checked into the
Grenadines in Bequia….we both became lazy at updating this page…apologies
to our friends who have been following our trip for such a long absence.
From
Bequia we went to the Tobago Cays, Union Island, and then checked into
Grenada & Carriacou at Hillsborough.
As
the end of the season approached we made our way to St.Georges lagoon in
Grenada, and from there to Prickly Bay.
By
the end of June we had decided that Maranatha was going to stay in
Grenada for hurricane season…and we separated as Hiro returned to Japan,
and after a few weeks alone on the boat, I went to Vancouver for 3
months.

Beach party at the Tobago Cays |

…more party! |

…and resting at Union Island |

baby Sam..trying to enjoy a beer |

Canonan beach |

the dock.. |
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…another night out |

time for fuel |

and the races start |
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Avacado’s in Grenada |

Ginger plant |

Rum factory..95% proof! |
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Ready for river tubing… |

at the waterfall |

…before I get flipped out… |
I had
planned to return to Grenada in October, but instead decided to go to
Japan. After a difficult
couple of weeks in Tokyo…we agreed on a plan that would work for both of
us…that being that I buy a house in Japan, so we have a base there…and
live in Japan for 6 months a year…and sail for a few months a year.
In November
I bought a house in Hakuba, Nagano….the house is nestled amongst trees,
at a super ski resort, at the base of the Japan alps.
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...before the snow |

the ski runs |

clearing the snow! |
As
winter approached and the temperatures dropped, the ski resort came to
life…the Olympic jump ramp just 500 meters for the house, we can see the
ski lifts from our living room window! I forgot how cold Japan can be in the winter…regularly
waking up to –8 or -10 degrees C. Even with the heaters set to come on at
7am, the house was barely warm by 9…..a new winter wardrobe was needed.
We
brought the 4WD truck from Hiro’s mothers house, for me to use to get
around the village, and had to buy a BMW for Hiro to commute to work in
Tokyo a couple of days a week( a 3 hour drive)…and rented a room from a
friend.
Once
our furniture that had been in storage for 3 years was delivered to the
house, it started to feel like home.
At
the end of January I was sad to be leaving our home in Hakuba, but also
looking forward to returning to our home Maranatha….she had been sitting
in the water now …empty for 6 months….
May 21st ,06
Marin, Martinique to Rodney Bay, St. Lucia
Since
arriving in the Windward Islands we have had nothing less than 25
knots...often more wind, our trip to St.Lucia was no exception....as we
sailed out of Marin Bay, I said to Hiro we should take the reef out of
the main...there's not much wind today...he said lets wait a little
longer...and sure enough, within 30 minutes we had 22 knots wind...and up
to 28...
We averaged about 7 knots, and made the 25 mile trip in less than 4
hours! as we pulled into Rodney bay and dropped anchor it was blowing 26!
We soon spotted 'Leadership'...Howard, Suzanne and baby Sam, now a big 5
months old...but still a wonderfully quiet baby! I think Suzanne must be
mixing his bottle with Rum...he never makes a sound...by the pool all
day, and then out at dinner....just a perfect baby.!!
Suzanne's parents were visiting in St. Lucia for 3 weeks....to see the
baby, so we got to spend the day by the hotel pool with
them...Cocktails...Jaccuzzi....huge pool...it was luxury!...and great to
catch up on news and make new friends too.
Dinner together at Razmataz, an Indian restaurant, was a real
treat....the chef was from Katmandu...and the food was so good....Garlic
Nan, Vindaloo...Rogan Josh...and Korma....it was like being back in
England!
Again...our only dissapointment has been the lack of WIFI...and
St.Lucia's power is the british 240Volt system, so we couldn't plug in
anywhere...and even in the restaurants advertizing WIFI...the signals
were very poor.
Also, the number of boat boys has tripled as we move south thru the
island...in Rodney Bay the only problem we had was the laundry
service....they come out to the boat, collect the laundry, and then bring
it back later that day...all dried and folded.
When the guy came to the boat, I gave him our laundry bag, asked him how
much, and he said 2 loads, 50$EC...that's about US$ 10 per load....later
when he returned he said it was 3 loads...and wanted $75EC....thats
US$30..to do laundry...so after I got the laundry back, I paid him
$50EC...as agreed...and told him I wasn't going to pay any
more...explaining a deal is a deal.
Well...he was back the next morning...a 15minute argument for ten
bucks....but it was the principle....I thought I was getting ripped off...so
refused to pay!
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...the fruit man!
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Rodney Bay anchorage
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Razmataz...good Indian food
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After a few days we headed south to Marigot Bay...and the boat boys
started to become the bain of our life...first offering a mooring...that
I politely refuse, saying that we are going to anchor. But....not exagerating...within
2 hours, 10...maybe more guys had been along side...The first we bought
fruit from...Bananas and Limes....so then the next guys
comes...complaining that he saw us come in..but didnt want to rush
us...and we should buy bread from him...then the next with trinkets...the
next wants to wash the boat...the next has T shirts...the next is selling
weed...then Pineapples...then touting restaurants...then I get the story
of how they need to sell trinkets so they can buy gas to go fishing to feed
their families...it ges very tiresome...I've started saying we have no
money too...and they go away....but its sad that these people live like
this...there is lots of work on the island...construction
everywhere...jobs are there if they want to work.
Going into town to buy groceries, there is someone waiting at the
dock...a crack head...who wants paying for "watching the
dinghy"...outside the supermarket a well dressed woman
approaches...hello friend...hello friend...give me money for a drink..
...not even the excuse of food to feed her family...she just wants some
stupid tourist to buy her a drink.
I've had enough of St Lucia...checked out today, sailing to St.Vincent
tommorrw...but I'm told the boat boys are even worse there!...Ahhhh...the
trials and tribulations of life in paradise!!
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entering Marigot Bay...
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...Marigot bay sunset
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The Pitons
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May 14th ,06
Roseau, Dominica to Fort de France, Martinique
We made an
early start for the 50 mile trip to Martinique, again we were hit by a wall
of wind as we left the lee of the island. We could see boats in front of
us go from no heel, to 30 degrees....in an instant.....
Prepared, we had the jib reefed, the main reefed, and the full mizen
up......we went fron 6 knots to 25....gusting 28 to 30
With an east wind on the beam, we made our all time speed record of
8.4knots....for our heavy old lady, thats fast!!
It was a wonderful sail into Fort de France....the last hour, we were
heading east into the bay...smashing into the wind...but we didn't
care....it had been a great day's sailing. We hoisted our yellow flag
about 5pm and made a G&T....
The next morning we went in to do customs, couldnt find the customs
office or the tourist info office, so headed for the local marine
chandlery...the staff spoke good english, so we tried to get a new
impeller for the small outboard, then asked about customs etc....the
response was, Oh, no problem, you can do that here....we cleared into the
country in a marine store!...talk about being cruiser friendly!
The ferry traffic made the anchorage rolly, so we headed across the bay
to Trois Islets....a little disappointed, we only stayed one night and
then moved on to Anse Mitan...very touristy...but the cafe's, and French
bread sandwiches were just great.
Heading over to the south east corner of the island was probably a
mistake from a sailing point of view...we had the wind on the nose
heading southeast for a couple of hours....but the beaches at St. Anne
made it all wothwhile!
We decided to stay a couple of nights, and did a 2 hour each way, hike
thru the national park, around the coast, on a marked trail...deserted
beach after beach just kept getting better, untill we finally
stopped...relaxed and swam for a couple of hours, and then headed back.
The following morning, after my weary legs had recovered, we motored into
the bay of Marin. With slip spaces for 600 boats, and another 600 to 800
at anchor, it was the largest concentration of sailboats I've ever
seen...anywhere.
The marina facilities were to match....we found the impeller we needed at
the first parts store we went to...all the staff very helpful trying to
speak english to us. The only dissapointment was the WIFI and Power
supply, French round pins ...so we, couldn't plug in...and in the wifi ok
restaurants, we coulnd't get a strong enough connection...it was very
frustrating.
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Fort de France
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Trail thru park...
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...one of the beaches
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May 10th ,06
The Saintes to Porthsmouth, Dominica
After another
fast sail in 22 to 25 knot winds, we passed into the lee of Dominica, and
the seas calmed, making the approach into Prince Rupert Bay
straightforward. We must still have been 3 miles out when the first boat
boy came along side...expaining he was a tour guide, and if were
approached by anyone else, we should say we had booked with him!
Within the first two hours I think six guys came alongside trying to sell
something...fruit, T-shirts, Weed, boat cleaning, freshbread, courtesy
flags, most of them on surf boards,... but very polite, and only a firm
"no thank you" was necessary, and they left...wishing us a good
day.
After dropping achor and getting the boat squared away, we were just
sitting down to a cocktail when we spotted "Spirit", it was
Andrew and Elizabeth, friends from Luperon....such a small world! So we
put the dink in and headed over to say Hello.
Paul and Leanne were anchored close by, so it was a very hectic social
life for a few days!
After clearing Customs the following morning, our guide Martin took us
and Paul and Leanne on a tour of the Indian River, and then the following
day a full day minibus tour for 8....the guide was superb, very proud of
his island....and we got to see so much that we have just drove by...if
we'd been in a car by ourselves....the tour guides were real
pro's...worth every penny!
After the amazing food in The Saintes....the food in Dominica couldnt
compete....prices were about the same...but just not the style or
quality....just average.
After doing all the sightseeing from Portsmouth, we headed down to Roseau
and anchored off the Anchorage Hotel. Again the boat boys
approached...but they were polite.
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Martin...our guide
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...going thru Indian River
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pool in the rain forest
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Portsmouth town
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the morning market
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the bay at Portsmouth
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May 5th ,06
Guadeloupe to The Saintes
After touring
Guadeloupe by car, we decided not to stop at any of the anchorages on the
west side as we headed south to The Saintes....every place we had stopped
at by car looked very rolly, so we just by-passed them all...Basse Terre
looked very attractive from the ocean view, quite different to driving
thru. As we left the lee of Guadeloupe 25 knots of wind hit us...and from
there it was a fast sail. We struggled to point up enough into the wind,
so motorsailed in for the last 30 minutes.
Bourg Des Saintes on Terre D'en Haut was just as stunning as it gets.
Talk about picturesque....again, I bow to the French...the old British
islands just cant compete. On our fist evening there, after cocktails
with our French neighbours, we headed into town for Dinner with Paul and
Leanne, and a Swiss guy from another boat beside us.
We had an absolutely delightful 3 course dinner with wine, congac, and
coffee for US$ 25 per person....the french certainly know how to cook!
Our only bad experience in The Saintes was at the so called " Yacht
Club",...the place actually looks more like a run down dive
shop...but we needed water, so arranged with the owners to tie off and
fill our water tanks...confirmed size of boat, and that we are a
monohull, then paid US$25 to fill the tanks with water. After paying, I
was told...its a big boat...you have to pay extra!!...so after a 10
minute argument on the beach, we finally got the tanks filled...
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The Saintes...view
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..from the fort
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...as we approached
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Fort Napoleon
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..another visitor!
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....another view!
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May 2nd ,06
Antigua to Guadeloupe, West Indies
As we approached the
anchorage at Deshaies, I said to Hiro we should put some shorts on...so
as not to make a bad impression....arriving half naked.
As we dropped anchor I soon realized that the people on at least half the
boats around us were all naked!....it didnt take us long to get
comfortable too!
Our first impression of Guadeloupe and the picturesque fishing village of
Deshaies was great.....the color of the green mountain sides and the
pretty red roofed buildings a perfect contrast. Customs and Immigration
was quick and easy...and free!!...no charge at all.
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Deshaies...a fishing village
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the first sunset
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a local flower
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On our way into the anchorage we'd recognized Otro Mundo...Paul and
Leanne from Ingleside in Texas...we hadn't seen them since Culebra...but had
heard from other friends that they were heading our way.
The next morning we got together, decided to rent a car and go explore
the island....by the time we got into town the car place had just closed
for the afternoon siesta...so with nothing else to do....of course we
headed for the closest bar!...after trying a couple of them, we agreed we
should wait till the next morning and get the car for the whole day. Good
thing we did, Guadeloupe is a big island, and we only saw half of
it...but the best half!
Heading south along the coast we passed thru the most georgeous little
town after town....Pointe-Noire, Bouillante, Marigot, Vieux-Habitants,
and then our first stop was at Fort Delgres at Basse-Terre.....,building
started in 1649...and was then added onto later....but all open to the
public free of charge.
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Fort Delgres
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...at the entrance with Paul and Leanne
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sculpture at the fort
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views of the fort
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Hiro
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a quick stop at the beach
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Our second stop was a much smaller Fort on the southern most peninsular,
Vieux-Fort, with wonderful views over to Les Saintes and Dominica. Then
on to the best stop of the day...the chute du Carbet....Water
falls.....just stunning, nestled in the rain forest, the colours were
spectacular...and it was cool....the water was just cool enough to be
refreshing, but not too cold for a dip!
The French national parks are very well maintained...and all are free and
open to visitors....and the highway system on this Island is second to
none...it was hard to believe we were driving on a caribbean island, and
not the outskirts of Paris.
Again, my attitude about the French needs to change...this island is the
best we have seen so far....clean, attractive, buildings well maintained,
excellent facilities, and great restaurants...and the french breads and
pastries....and the outdoor cafe's...just such a pleasure. After the
falls we headed up the east coast of Basse-Terre to Pointe-a-Pitre to
check out the very nice Marina facilities there.
The foods are all French, with a great selection of inexpensive wines and
cheeses....and we even had a laugh trying to speak French.
Looking forward to Hopping down to Les Saintes tommorrow (also
French)...!
Apr 29th ,06
Antigua, West Indies
The next two days just
flew by....busy preparing the boat, cleaning and provisioning. We found a
local lady doing laundry at English Harbour...for about US$10 per load,
so just dropped off our dirty sheets, towels and clothes...and returned a
few hours later and it was all done....she had even washed our laundry
bag (saying it was too dirty to put clean clothes into!)
Jim and Cindy's flight was delayed...and by the time they arrived we were
both drunk...(well, waiting to meet them at a bar...what can one
expect!....) And then we all headed back to the boat...and continued
drinking....we had so much to chat about....and so much news to catch up
on....I think we finished the bottle!...The next morning I regreted
it...not one of my better days,...the two aspin's I took came straight
back up...and even the coffee was tough to keep down.....Ahhhh its good to
see old friends!!!
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The entrance to Nelson's Dockyard
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Cocktails help a hangover!
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.. Nelsons Dockyard!
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Jim was struggling with back pains after the long flight , so we had a
quick walk thru Nelsons Dockyard and down to Falmouth Harbour and the
Supermarket....just needing eggs and a few other things. After a stop at
the Admirals Inn for some liquid refreshment we headed back to the boat.
I needed a G&T to try and shake off my hangover!.
We agreed that rather than stay and watch the Antigua Classic
Regatta....we'd head off sailing around the Island and explore for the
week.....within the hour we were under way. We found some stunning
anchorages on the north side of the island..very secluded...and pristine
blue waters.
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Cindy wants one, Jim!!
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.. Hiro want one of these now!
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.. relaxing together!
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One of the anchorages....
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Cindy's boob's keep her afloat!
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..doing it island style!!
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For us it was a fun, but exhausing week...pulling anchor,setting sails
every day!...we usually stay put for 3 days or so, then move on to the
next location....(but when you only have a week to explore)...so, we
moved on every day....and Jim and Cindy were great crew and made it easy
with 4 people.
Cindy loved it...constantly tweeking the sail trim, from hoisting them to
pulling them down....poor Hiro was constantly busy adjusting
lines...(Hiro and I usually set the sails once, and just leave
them...unless we have a major wind shift)....it was a great experience
for us having someone like Cindy onboard!
Jim started work on the old Mercury Outboard that needed fixing...he'd
brought a new carb with him...but the sizes weren't quite the same, so he
had to rebuild the old one with JB Weld....and after a couple of days it
was running great!
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Jim gets busy with the cardboard
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Voilla....its done!! ..a gasket
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..and we try to put it together..!
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I think it was their second day that things started to break...for some
strange reason...things just started to break...one after the
other....the big outboard that we changed the impeller on, just a few
weeks ago stopped pumping water again, the boarding ladder broke, the
galley floor collapsed, and then the new Yanmar Engine's oil pressure
sender failed....In a squal we had to drop the main in 36knots of
wind...and of course it jammed and broke a couple of the glides, then the
edge of the galley counter split off as the sink board slid across as we
heeled over in the heavy winds....I said to Hiro this is strange that all
these things go at the same time....I was starting to think Jim and Cindy
had brought us bad luck....but Hiro said no...it your father....his
spirit is trying to keep us here.
I have never been very spiritual or religous...but Hiro is a Buddist and
believes in the spirits. He was sure the reason that we had the good(
somewhat unusual) South West winds to get us to Antigua, and all the
things that had happened were related to my fathers spirit... I was somewhat
sceptical...to say the least.
Everything was easily repaired except for the oil pressure sensor...Jim
made a new gasket out of cardboard on the beach for the water pump on the
outboard, I screwed and re-glued the boarding ladder...and the galley
floor, we had extra glides for the main and Jim re-glued the galley
counter edge, everything was easily fixed except for the oil pressure
sender.
The week flew bye, we were sad to see Jim and Cindy go,..... the boat was
so quiet after they left...we'd had a great week together.
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Our new AutoPilot....
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Falmouth Harbour
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.. a farewell dinner together
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After a couple of days relaxing at the beach...life was back to normal,
and we headed back to English Harbour to try and get a new oil pressure
sensor.
On-route we stopped at Jolly Harbour to change out some rusted couplings
on the steering cables...the first one went fine...then as we started the
second...the wire itself started to split.....I was starting to think
Hiro was right!
We found a replacement oil pressure sender....but it was the wrong one,
so returned it the next day....the best we could do was a used one that
was laying about it the mechanics shop...we tried it...cross threaded
it...and then spent the rest of the day trying to get the old one back in
just so we could start the engine if the winds picked up during the
night.
The sensor unit wasn't critical, so after such a dismal day, we decided
to listen to Chris Parkers weather and if the forcast was good head out
for Guadeloupe the next morning. The Wind Guru.com's weather was also
good, so we decided to go!
We pulled out at 8am, the seas looking worse than expected for the 12 to
15 knot forcast winds...but I was sure as we pulled away from the Island
the seas would settle down....I couldnt have been more wrong!
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Race weeks starts...
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.. Whooa...watch the dink mate...
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.. who's this???
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The winds just kept building...we had the full main up and 30plus knots of
wind....we kept letting the main out, and motor sailed to help balance
the boat.... 12 foot seas were breaking off the bow and 100 gallon waves
were hitting us in the cockpit..our feet swarming in white foam...for the
first time ever I turned the dorade vents to stop the water entering the
cabin.
Hiro kept looking back and I could sense that he wanted to turn
around...even though he wasn't saying so.
After 2 hours the seas suddenly settled, and the winds dropped to 15
knots...with 4 foot seas. Hiro turned and said to me...your father has
let you go.
The rest of the sail to Guadaloupe could not have been better...we made 6
plus knots the whole way...sun shining...listening to music relaxing.
Apr 15th ,06
Nevis to Antigua, West Indies
At 5am we
woke to rain and dark skies, so decided to sleep for another hour and see
if things improved. We finally got underway at 7.30, the wind couldnt
have been a better direction...there just wasn't enough of it!!!
I was feeling as sick as a dog...as if i'd caught a cold...but i think it
was phsycological...just nervous about heading back to Antigua after so
many years. Hiro stayed at the helm most of the day as I slept....by the
time we pulled into English Harbour, Antigua at 3 pm, I was feeling
fine...and it was good to see familiar boats as we entered the
anchorage....Wounded Spirit, Makers Match and Leadership were all here.
English Harbour, and Nelson's Dockyard is much prettier than I
remembered...the building have all been restored and its a beautiful
place now. It was good to catch up on each others news at happy hour!
Now we have 2 days to do laundry and get the boat cleaned for for Jim and
Cindy's arrival on Wednesday....can't wait to see them again.
Apr 10th ,06
St. Barth's, French West Indies to St. Kitts and Nevis
With an Easterly wind of
15 knots forecast, we were looking forward to a fast tack down to
St.Kitts, as we pulled out at 6.30am the winds were light, so we set all
the sails....within 10 minutes, we were starting to be overpowered, with
the rail dipping into the water and foam flooding the decks as the winds
gusted to 25 knots.....we quickly reefed the jib and tried to get the
boat under control....it was a tough 5 minutes....but finally we had all
the sails trimmed correctly, and the boat balanced so we weren't heeled
over too much...and we sailed at about 6 knots comfortably all the way to
St Kitts....arriving at 4pm, we made it just in time to do Customs..and
the staff were very helpful....but Immigration had closed, so we went
into the police station in town the following morning.
What a contrast to St. Barth's....it was like being in a 3rd world
country again...I have never seen any public building so dirty or in such
dis-repair....and this was the main police station in the Capital City,
Bassettere.
If this island wants to attract the sailing community...they really need
to do better....the facilities are not cruiser friendly at all. Its such
a shame because the island itself is beautiful....green hillsides and
mountains that brush the clouds.
After a rolly night in the commercial harbour we did our immigration
formalities and headed out in search of a good anchorage.....we spent a
couple of nights at Ballast bay....but the wind swung round to the south
west, and the swell satrted rolling in...so we headed out over to Nevis,
looking for somewhere where we'd get a good night's sleep!
Tamirand Bay was the best spot we could find....but not great.
Chris Parkers weather forcast was looking good for a Saturday crossing,
for the 50 miles to Antigua, with a South West wind it was looking like
we could make it across without having to go down to Monseratt or
Guadeloupe....and then back up
We pulled in near the main dock at Charlestown, dropped anchor and headed
in to get fuel and do customs clearance and get our exit papers for
Antigua.
As I stepped on the dock, I asked one of the locals where i could get
fuel....it looked like everything was closed?. his reply was
"Ahhh... its Easter Weekend..Good Friday...everything is
closed!!!!" All kind of thoughts started racing thru my mind...Good
Friday...that means everything will be closed thru Monday......and we
have to be in Antigua by Wednesday....
Local taxi drivers started buzzing around us, wanting the fare to the gas
station to get us fuel...so I asked about the customs office....the
Harbour Master called for us, and to my amazement...they were open...we
cleared out and headed out looking for somewhere to spend the night. The
wind was still blowing South West....this was great for us...and we found
a nice little beach at the back of Hurricane Hill and had the whole place
to ourselves.
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The view as we
approached St.Kitts
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...the main square
Bassettere
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...the clouds rolling in....
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The clouds shrouding
Nevis
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.. at the beach
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...relaxing on the rocks
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Apr 6th ,06
Marigot Bay, St.Martin to St. Barth's, French West Indies
From
Philipsburg, just 12 miles...we really didnt pay too much attention to the
wind...thinking ahh, we'll be there in 2 or 3 hours.....big mistake, and
a very valuable lesson to be learned!! With a strong current against us,
It took us over 3 hours tacking into the wind to make the first 6
miles....and when we checked closely, it was actually 18 miles from where
we were in Marigot Bay, and we should have gone around the island the
other way to get a beter angle on the wind for the sail to St.
Barth's....at 1pm, we realized at the rate we were going, if we didn't
motor sail, we wouldnt make the remaining 12 miles before dark.
Motorsailing at 6 knots, directly for St.Barth's we made the 12 miles in
2 hours and arrived just after 3pm!
St.Barth's has to be the most picturesque harbour I have ever seen...just
delightful. And even though it goes against the grain for me to say so,
the people were just wonderful...I have to reconsider my feelings for the
French!
Stepping into the Harbour Masters air conditioned office was more like
entering the lobby of a first class hotel...dark woods, art work on the
panelled walls and hardwood floors...I thought I was at the wrong
place...really, but when I asked, the reply couldnt have been more
friendly or helpful...and Immigation was complete in five minutes...by a
very informal harbour master.
I wasn't sure of our departure date or next port, saying it depended on
the weather...and he just said "ahh, no problem, I'll hold your
papers till you decide, and then just come back and pay your harbour fees
when you check out"....
We decided to stay the weekend, and do some walking and explore the
island. On our charts it looked like it was about 1 1/2 to 2 miles to a
beach that looked just georgeous in the guidebook....so we set off
walking....the veiws were spectacular, as we climbed hill after hill, but
as the heat of the day built, and only one bottle of water between us, we
decided to turn back when we saw how far it was down from the top of the
hill to the beach. Pretty much exhausted from walking we decided to hitch
hike back to town.... and the first car that passed stopped and picked us
up.....took us to the end of the road and dropped us off as he was going
in the opposite direction.....stepping out of his car, we started hitch
hiking again, and the fist car to pass stopped and took us all the way back
to the harbour...I must say...these French people were really very nice!
The only thing we didnt like about St.Barth's were the prices....we
stopped in a cafe for lunch, free WiFi being the attraction. For 2 BLT
sandwiches and 2 Beers it was $45 US....needless to say the following day
we just had the beers as we did our e-mail...!!
The buildings are charming, and the streets lined with all the major
boutique brands...Cartier, Gucci, Versace, Rolex, Prada...for us it was
pleasant to just window shop!! The Supermarket was a treat...the
selection of French produce just amazing...the cheeses and tax free
French wines....needless to say we stocked up!
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The view form the
hill.
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...and all the yachts
at anchor
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...taking a rest...exhausted...!
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Apr 3rd ,06
Orient Bay to Marigot Bay, St.Martin, French West Indies
We had to sail back
around the Island, to Marigot bay to check out and get our clearance
papers for St.Barts. Anchored in Marigot Bay we were close enough to
dinghy thru the lagoon and go back to Shrimpy's for free wifi and happy
hour!...and it gave us chance to talk to our friends Jim and Cindy in
Texas, and book their flights to fly down to Antigua to sail with us for
a week.
I had been very apprehensive about returning to Antigua, my father having
died there 25 years ago...and lots of bad memories associated with
Antigua, but timing wise, it was the logical place to pick up Jim and
Cindy....and I guess it gave me the reason I need to go back to the
island.
So, as soon as the flights were booked, we headed out for St Barts...with
only 2 weeks to get to Antigua.
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Lagoon entrance from
the French Side
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...checking out
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...and shopping for T-shirts!...!
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Mar 31st,06
Orient Bay, St.Martin, French West Indies
The beach here is
stunning...clean white sand about 3 miles long with a resort at each end.
We chose to head for the nudist resort and enjoyed 4 days without even
thinking about clothes....the shops, bars, restaurants...everywhere is
clothing optional....and the bay is protected by a reef to make the
waters calm. We anchored in just 7 feet of water...over soft
sand....prepared our coctails and ice, and I headed to the beach in the
dinghy and Hiro by Kayak. After 4 days of just lazing on the beach
enjoying the sun...we decided it was time to move on.
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The beach just goes
on...
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...and on.....
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...and on...!
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Mar 30th,06
Simpson Bay, St.Martin, Dutch West Indies to French West Indies
After checking out of
the Dutch Side we dinghied over to the French Side to
check-in....arriving just after they had closed for lunch...so that gave
us a couple of hours to explore the French Town and Marigot Bay....at 2pm
with our papers stamped we headed back to say our goodbye's to friends
anchored close by...saying we'll be seeing you down island!.....
At the 4.30pm bridge opening we headed out of the lagoon and anchored in
the bay outside....a very rolly night...so early the next morning we
headed out for Orient Bay...and we were all set and anchored, ready for
the beach by 10am!
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More Mega Yachts
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Heading out from
Simpson Lagoon
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...Wounded Spirit behind us!
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Mar 22nd,06
Simpson Bay, St.Martin, Dutch West Indies
The seas on
the passage to St Martin had been worse than the weather forcast had
suggested, so even motor sailing short tacks into the wind, it still took
us 18hours. By the time we had put the dinghy in, and attached the
engine, and motored in to Immigration...it was 4.20pm....but, open till
5pm, I thought no problem. Just as we stepped thru the door the
immigration officer announced that she had to leave, and asked us to
return at 8am the following morning....stressing 8am 4 times.
At 8.30 the next morning we returned to Immigration...only to wait
another hour for this lady to show up....no appology for being late...4
people waiting in line. (what is it with immigration officials...????)
St.Martin is nothing like the BVI's....this is a Mega Yacht
Mecca....there must be at least 40 huge mega yachts tied off here. And
hundreds of cruisers anchored in Simpon Bay Lagoon also. The facilities
here are second to none...a sailors paradise...everything you can think
of.. at tax free prices.
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Sunday morning, free
beers and hotdogs... the swap meet at Shrimpy's
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Mega Yachts...10 in a
row..!
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...they're everywhere..!!
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On day 2 we found the discout marine store and both bought new
toys...Hiro a Kayak, and me a new Generator!
Pulling into Simpson Bay Lagoon it was good to see our friends, Howard
and Suzanne of "Leadership", and Hoyt and Lola of "Wounded
Spirit"...we dropped anchor close by...in this busy, but fully
protected anchorage.
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Suzanne and Baby Sam
at 3 months..
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...Hiro's new Toy...
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...and Des' new toy!!
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After a few more days we are going to check out of the Dutch side of the
Island, then dinghy accros the lagoon and check into the French
side...and then pull out and go sail around tothe French side of the
island. After exploring in a renal car we know exactly where we want to
go, ....Orient Bay and Tintemarre Island look so inviting...
Marigot, on the French side was....what can I say...very
French!!..beautiful charming place, but, to my mind, would improve
immensely if the Frogs left.
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Marigot Harbour....
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...and its cocktail
time again!
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...Orient beach
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Watching the planes land while having lunch at the beachside bar at
Sunset Beach was an experience....the jet blast from the engines
literally blows things/people off the beach as planes takeoff and land.
Sunbathers tend to stay to either one side or the other...everyone with
camera in hand...as a plane almost lands on top of them!!....just look at
these pictures!
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Watching the planes...
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...going right over
the beach...
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...and onto the runway!.
|
Mar 21st,06
Leverick Bay, BVI's to Simpson Bay, St.Martin, Dutch West Indies
As we pulled
out in the dark I was nervous about passing the reef at the entrance
chanel...but with the chart plotter, and chanel markers keeping me on
course, we were soon out...and heading between Richard Branson's private
Necker Island and Eustatia Sound...(another mass of reefs)...it was about
50 minutes before we were clear and in open waters,.... and I could
relax. The moon was bright but the wind was blowing 18 to 20 knots, and
the swell 6 to 8 feet.
Hiro took the first 3 hour watch, and then Jim the next, so I got to
"sleep" till 5am...our usual cruising pattern is 3 hours on.. 3
off...and on a long passage this gets very hard towards the end...never
getting enough sleep...but not this time...with Jim on board (an
experienced sailor), I was comfortable to let him stand watch, and it was
like cruising in first class for us, getting a good rest/sleep!.... 6
hours off and then 3 on. The whole 18hour trip was only 2 shifts each!
Next time we do a long passage we need extra crew.....anyone interested
let me know at the contact us link!!
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Hiro on watch...
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ashore for lunch
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...trying to grill dinner.
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Mar 20th,06
Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour to Virgin Gorda North Sound, Leverick Bay,
BVI's
After going
ashore to check out of the BVI's, we made our way to Leverick Bay in
Virgin Gorda North Sound....we would wait here for good weather for the
18hour passage to St.Martin.
After listening to Chris Parker's weather... we relaxed the first night,
and decided to head out the following evening, departing at 10pm for a 3
to 4 pm arrival in St.Martin.
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Leverick Bay
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trying to get a WIFI
signal
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...hotdogs for the passage....
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Mar 19th,06
Trellis Bay to The Baths to Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour,BVI's
The weather
couldn't have been better...but the wind was right on the nose, so we
motored over to The Baths....anchoring just off the beach...there were
yachts everywhere...cruisers, charter boats...there must have been 50
boats at anchor !
As we dinghy'd ashore, we noticed signs on the beach saying "NO
DINGHY'S"....everyone was tied off to line between mooring bouys,
and then swam ashore.
These rules had kept the beaches in pristine condition...after exploring
the caves we relaxed on the white sand beaches.
This place is a "must see"...I quicky realized why there were
so many boats at anchor here!
Bye the time we pulled out at 4pm, most of the boats had left....we
headed for Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour, just an hour away, and anchored in
the Bay.
|

Des and Jimmy....
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....Hiro ....weight
lifting
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... and then relaxing
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Mar 18th,06
Trellis Bay, BVI's
We pulled
anchor for the 30min motor over to Trellis Bay at 9am. Before 10 we were
anchored just off the airport runway!
After a trip ashore to stock up on essential foods (everything was
outrageously expensive)... Then we went to the airport, just across the
road, to meet Jim who was going to be sailing with us to St.Martin. It
was great to chat and catch up on new...and then the next morning we
pulled out for Virgin Gorda.
|

Found these checking the
anchor
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Hiro...you knapping
again?....
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Cheers....
|
Mar 16 to 17th,06
Marina Cay, BVI's
With just a
couple of days before Jimmy's arrival, (our first guest to be
staying/sailing with us on the boat )...it was time to get busy! We
pulled into Marina Cay, anchored just off the fuel dock, and then made
several trips with the Jerry Jugs to top off the fuel and water....the
guys at the fuel dock were great...very friendly...left my tab open as I
made 3 trips back to the boat...the total bill only $165 !!...nearly $5 a
gallon for Diesel, and 16 cents a gallon for water!
As I was paying the bill, I saw Stazia of "To Us"...last time
we'd talked was at Jost Van Dyke, just a few days earlier...but its
always great to run into friends, so we arranged to have cocktails at the
Marina Cay bar.....its such a hard life!!
The next day we really got to work, did all the laundry... vacumed and
cleand the boat from bow to stern...it was the cleanest I'd seen the boat
in a long time!
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Marina Cay Fuel Dock
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...as the sun goes
down
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.. sunset from the bar.
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Mar 14 to 16th,06
Jost Van Dyke to Lee
Bay, BVI's
Knowing that
our friend Jimmy from Miami would be flying in to Tortola on the 18th, we
decided to head that way while the weather was good. We pulled out Monday
morning, firstly thinking that we'd go back to Soppers hole to top off
the fuel and water tanks, do laundry etc....but the wind was better for
going down towards the airport.
As we approached Guana Island, we looked at the anchorage and decided to
keep going...thru past Monkey Point, and anchored on the west side of
Great Camanoe, in Lee bay.
As we neared there were 3 other boats at anchor....a georgeous quiet
little bay...but by nightfall there were 11 boats... plenty of space for
everyone...so we decided to stay another night....just a couple of miles
from the airport.
The snorkeling was wonderful...and the waters just so pristine...and no
swell in the little bay...it was perfect!...diving off the side of the
boat into clear blue waters!
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great snorkeling...
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..and swarms of fish
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...and pelicans eating them!.
|
|

....at Foxy's
|

at the bar again????
|

...another sunset at Jost Van Dyke.
|
Mar 11th, 06
Coral Bay to Road
Town Harbour, Tortola, BVI's
Our check-in
to the BVI's was straight forward, the customs guys were friendly and
courteous but the immigration lady had so much attitude weighing her
down, I was surprised she could stand up....just about damn right
rude.... we didnt want any hassle with immigration so just kept smiling
and being polite. We left Road Town Harbour less than an hour after
pulling in....this lady had left a sour taste. Headed for Soppers
Hole...but then decided to carry on to Jost Van Dyke.
After 3 days anchored in Great Harbour, and with the party atmosphere of
Foxy"s Bar and Restaurant....we just love it
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Downwind from Road
Town
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too much sun...???
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...another sunset.
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Mar 8th, 06
Caneel Bay to Coral Bay
Francis Bay was looking
good....but mooring only, so sailed around the island to Coral Bay, Coral
Harbour. A wonderful place for cruisers....two beers for $3 at happy hour!...anchoring
OK....and a dinghy dock, and supermarkets within walking distance!
After spending the afternoon with Charles, we returned to the dinghy dock
a little drunk...standing on the dock looking for our dinghy, an
approaching boat shouted "hey, whats up guys...cant remember where
you left your dinghy"....kind of in a Frozen Margaritta daze...sure
we had tied the dinghy off there...we said to the next approaching
couple...."we've lost our dinghy...we left it here a few hours
ago.....and its gone".
Now we were starting to worry....to loose a dinghy on a small island...no
spare...no transportation....all of this was running thru my mind....not
to mention another $3,000 for a new dink and motor!...even if we could
find one.
The dinghy had been locked with padlock and wire rope...and the were much
nicer dinghy's than ours that seemed to be untouched...so i figured that
it probably hadnt been stolen....in broad daylight, mid afternoon at a
busy dinghy dock.
The only option I could think of was that somehow it had floated
away.....I said to Hiro, "are you sure you locked the
dinghy"......"yes, absolutely, tugged on the line to check
it'...
After a 30 minute walk to the windward side of the bay....guess what we
found washed up on the rocks???...our dinghy, fully intact with wire
rope....only thing missing was a padlock!!
So happy we had found the dinghy, we went out to dinner to celebrate!
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Wild Donkey's looking
for food
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Coral Bay....
|

......another view.
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