Last Up date
9th/April/07 Voyage Log

 

Voyage Log 2005-06 Season

 

April 9th ,07
South from St. Lucia to Grenada

 

After leaving St.Lucia in June, we bypassed St.Vincent and checked into the Grenadines in Bequia….we both became lazy at updating this page…apologies to our friends who have been following our trip for such a long absence.

 

From Bequia we went to the Tobago Cays, Union Island, and then checked into Grenada & Carriacou at Hillsborough.

As the end of the season approached we made our way to St.Georges lagoon in Grenada, and from there to Prickly Bay. 

By the end of June we had decided that Maranatha was going to stay in Grenada for hurricane season…and we separated as Hiro returned to Japan, and after a few weeks alone on the boat, I went to Vancouver for 3 months.


Beach party at the Tobago Cays

…more party!

…and resting at Union Island

 


baby Sam..trying to enjoy a beer

Canonan beach

the dock..

…another night out

time for fuel

and the races start

 


Avacado’s in Grenada

Ginger plant

Rum factory..95% proof!

 


Ready for river tubing…

at the waterfall

…before I get flipped out…

 

I had planned to return to Grenada in October, but instead decided to go to Japan.  After a difficult couple of weeks in Tokyo…we agreed on a plan that would work for both of us…that being that I buy a house in Japan, so we have a base there…and live in Japan for 6 months a year…and sail for a few months a year.

In November I bought a house in Hakuba, Nagano….the house is nestled amongst trees, at a super ski resort, at the base of the Japan alps.


...before the snow

the ski runs

clearing the snow!

 

As winter approached and the temperatures dropped, the ski resort came to life…the Olympic jump ramp just 500 meters for the house, we can see the ski lifts from our living room window!  I forgot how cold Japan can be in the winter…regularly waking up to –8 or -10 degrees C. Even with the heaters set to come on at 7am, the house was barely warm by 9…..a new winter wardrobe was needed.

 

We brought the 4WD truck from Hiro’s mothers house, for me to use to get around the village, and had to buy a BMW for Hiro to commute to work in Tokyo a couple of days a week( a 3 hour drive)…and rented a room from a friend.

 

Once our furniture that had been in storage for 3 years was delivered to the house, it started to feel like home.

At the end of January I was sad to be leaving our home in Hakuba, but also looking forward to returning to our home Maranatha….she had been sitting in the water now …empty for 6 months….


May 21st ,06
Marin, Martinique to Rodney Bay, St. Lucia

Since arriving in the Windward Islands we have had nothing less than 25 knots...often more wind, our trip to St.Lucia was no exception....as we sailed out of Marin Bay, I said to Hiro we should take the reef out of the main...there's not much wind today...he said lets wait a little longer...and sure enough, within 30 minutes we had 22 knots wind...and up to 28...
We averaged about 7 knots, and made the 25 mile trip in less than 4 hours! as we pulled into Rodney bay and dropped anchor it was blowing 26!
We soon spotted 'Leadership'...Howard, Suzanne and baby Sam, now a big 5 months old...but still a wonderfully quiet baby! I think Suzanne must be mixing his bottle with Rum...he never makes a sound...by the pool all day, and then out at dinner....just a perfect baby.!!
Suzanne's parents were visiting in St. Lucia for 3 weeks....to see the baby, so we got to spend the day by the hotel pool with them...Cocktails...Jaccuzzi....huge pool...it was luxury!...and great to catch up on news and make new friends too.
Dinner together at Razmataz, an Indian restaurant, was a real treat....the chef was from Katmandu...and the food was so good....Garlic Nan, Vindaloo...Rogan Josh...and Korma....it was like being back in England!
Again...our only dissapointment has been the lack of WIFI...and St.Lucia's power is the british 240Volt system, so we couldn't plug in anywhere...and even in the restaurants advertizing WIFI...the signals were very poor.

Also, the number of boat boys has tripled as we move south thru the island...in Rodney Bay the only problem we had was the laundry service....they come out to the boat, collect the laundry, and then bring it back later that day...all dried and folded.
When the guy came to the boat, I gave him our laundry bag, asked him how much, and he said 2 loads, 50$EC...that's about US$ 10 per load....later when he returned he said it was 3 loads...and wanted $75EC....thats US$30..to do laundry...so after I got the laundry back, I paid him $50EC...as agreed...and told him I wasn't going to pay any more...explaining a deal is a deal.
Well...he was back the next morning...a 15minute argument for ten bucks....but it was the principle....I thought I was getting ripped off...so refused to pay!


...the fruit man!


Rodney Bay anchorage


Razmataz...good Indian food


After a few days we headed south to Marigot Bay...and the boat boys started to become the bain of our life...first offering a mooring...that I politely refuse, saying that we are going to anchor. But....not exagerating...within 2 hours, 10...maybe more guys had been along side...The first we bought fruit from...Bananas and Limes....so then the next guys comes...complaining that he saw us come in..but didnt want to rush us...and we should buy bread from him...then the next with trinkets...the next wants to wash the boat...the next has T shirts...the next is selling weed...then Pineapples...then touting restaurants...then I get the story of how they need to sell trinkets so they can buy gas to go fishing to feed their families...it ges very tiresome...I've started saying we have no money too...and they go away....but its sad that these people live like this...there is lots of work on the island...construction everywhere...jobs are there if they want to work.
Going into town to buy groceries, there is someone waiting at the dock...a crack head...who wants paying for "watching the dinghy"...outside the supermarket a well dressed woman approaches...hello friend...hello friend...give me money for a drink..
...not even the excuse of food to feed her family...she just wants some stupid tourist to buy her a drink.

I've had enough of St Lucia...checked out today, sailing to St.Vincent tommorrw...but I'm told the boat boys are even worse there!...Ahhhh...the trials and tribulations of life in paradise!!


entering Marigot Bay...


...Marigot bay sunset


The Pitons




May 14th ,06
Roseau, Dominica to Fort de France, Martinique

We made an early start for the 50 mile trip to Martinique, again we were hit by a wall of wind as we left the lee of the island. We could see boats in front of us go from no heel, to 30 degrees....in an instant.....
Prepared, we had the jib reefed, the main reefed, and the full mizen up......we went fron 6 knots to 25....gusting 28 to 30
With an east wind on the beam, we made our all time speed record of 8.4knots....for our heavy old lady, thats fast!!

It was a wonderful sail into Fort de France....the last hour, we were heading east into the bay...smashing into the wind...but we didn't care....it had been a great day's sailing. We hoisted our yellow flag about 5pm and made a G&T....
The next morning we went in to do customs, couldnt find the customs office or the tourist info office, so headed for the local marine chandlery...the staff spoke good english, so we tried to get a new impeller for the small outboard, then asked about customs etc....the response was, Oh, no problem, you can do that here....we cleared into the country in a marine store!...talk about being cruiser friendly!
The ferry traffic made the anchorage rolly, so we headed across the bay to Trois Islets....a little disappointed, we only stayed one night and then moved on to Anse Mitan...very touristy...but the cafe's, and French bread sandwiches were just great.
Heading over to the south east corner of the island was probably a mistake from a sailing point of view...we had the wind on the nose heading southeast for a couple of hours....but the beaches at St. Anne made it all wothwhile!
We decided to stay a couple of nights, and did a 2 hour each way, hike thru the national park, around the coast, on a marked trail...deserted beach after beach just kept getting better, untill we finally stopped...relaxed and swam for a couple of hours, and then headed back.
The following morning, after my weary legs had recovered, we motored into the bay of Marin. With slip spaces for 600 boats, and another 600 to 800 at anchor, it was the largest concentration of sailboats I've ever seen...anywhere.
The marina facilities were to match....we found the impeller we needed at the first parts store we went to...all the staff very helpful trying to speak english to us. The only dissapointment was the WIFI and Power supply, French round pins ...so we, couldn't plug in...and in the wifi ok restaurants, we coulnd't get a strong enough connection...it was very frustrating.


Fort de France


Trail thru park
...


...one of the beaches




May 10th ,06
The Saintes to Porthsmouth, Dominica

After another fast sail in 22 to 25 knot winds, we passed into the lee of Dominica, and the seas calmed, making the approach into Prince Rupert Bay straightforward. We must still have been 3 miles out when the first boat boy came along side...expaining he was a tour guide, and if were approached by anyone else, we should say we had booked with him!
Within the first two hours I think six guys came alongside trying to sell something...fruit, T-shirts, Weed, boat cleaning, freshbread, courtesy flags, most of them on surf boards,... but very polite, and only a firm "no thank you" was necessary, and they left...wishing us a good day.
After dropping achor and getting the boat squared away, we were just sitting down to a cocktail when we spotted "Spirit", it was Andrew and Elizabeth, friends from Luperon....such a small world! So we put the dink in and headed over to say Hello.
Paul and Leanne were anchored close by, so it was a very hectic social life for a few days!
After clearing Customs the following morning, our guide Martin took us and Paul and Leanne on a tour of the Indian River, and then the following day a full day minibus tour for 8....the guide was superb, very proud of his island....and we got to see so much that we have just drove by...if we'd been in a car by ourselves....the tour guides were real pro's...worth every penny!
After the amazing food in The Saintes....the food in Dominica couldnt compete....prices were about the same...but just not the style or quality....just average.
After doing all the sightseeing from Portsmouth, we headed down to Roseau and anchored off the Anchorage Hotel. Again the boat boys approached...but they were polite.


Martin...our guide


...going thru Indian River


pool in the rain forest

 


Portsmouth town


the morning market


the bay at Portsmouth



May 5th ,06
Guadeloupe to The Saintes

After touring Guadeloupe by car, we decided not to stop at any of the anchorages on the west side as we headed south to The Saintes....every place we had stopped at by car looked very rolly, so we just by-passed them all...Basse Terre looked very attractive from the ocean view, quite different to driving thru. As we left the lee of Guadeloupe 25 knots of wind hit us...and from there it was a fast sail. We struggled to point up enough into the wind, so motorsailed in for the last 30 minutes.
Bourg Des Saintes on Terre D'en Haut was just as stunning as it gets. Talk about picturesque....again, I bow to the French...the old British islands just cant compete. On our fist evening there, after cocktails with our French neighbours, we headed into town for Dinner with Paul and Leanne, and a Swiss guy from another boat beside us.
We had an absolutely delightful 3 course dinner with wine, congac, and coffee for US$ 25 per person....the french certainly know how to cook!
Our only bad experience in The Saintes was at the so called " Yacht Club",...the place actually looks more like a run down dive shop...but we needed water, so arranged with the owners to tie off and fill our water tanks...confirmed size of boat, and that we are a monohull, then paid US$25 to fill the tanks with water. After paying, I was told...its a big boat...you have to pay extra!!...so after a 10 minute argument on the beach, we finally got the tanks filled...


The Saintes...view


..from the fort


...as we approached

 


Fort Napoleon


..another visitor!


....another view!



May 2nd ,06
Antigua to Guadeloupe, West Indies


As we approached the anchorage at Deshaies, I said to Hiro we should put some shorts on...so as not to make a bad impression....arriving half naked.
As we dropped anchor I soon realized that the people on at least half the boats around us were all naked!....it didnt take us long to get comfortable too!

Our first impression of Guadeloupe and the picturesque fishing village of Deshaies was great.....the color of the green mountain sides and the pretty red roofed buildings a perfect contrast. Customs and Immigration was quick and easy...and free!!...no charge at all.


Deshaies...a fishing village


the first sunset


a local flower


On our way into the anchorage we'd recognized Otro Mundo...Paul and Leanne from Ingleside in Texas...we hadn't seen them since Culebra...but had heard from other friends that they were heading our way.
The next morning we got together, decided to rent a car and go explore the island....by the time we got into town the car place had just closed for the afternoon siesta...so with nothing else to do....of course we headed for the closest bar!...after trying a couple of them, we agreed we should wait till the next morning and get the car for the whole day. Good thing we did, Guadeloupe is a big island, and we only saw half of it...but the best half!
Heading south along the coast we passed thru the most georgeous little town after town....Pointe-Noire, Bouillante, Marigot, Vieux-Habitants, and then our first stop was at Fort Delgres at Basse-Terre.....,building started in 1649...and was then added onto later....but all open to the public free of charge.


Fort Delgres


...at the entrance with Paul and Leanne


sculpture at the fort

 


views of the fort


Hiro


a quick stop at the beach


Our second stop was a much smaller Fort on the southern most peninsular, Vieux-Fort, with wonderful views over to Les Saintes and Dominica. Then on to the best stop of the day...the chute du Carbet....Water falls.....just stunning, nestled in the rain forest, the colours were spectacular...and it was cool....the water was just cool enough to be refreshing, but not too cold for a dip!


The French national parks are very well maintained...and all are free and open to visitors....and the highway system on this Island is second to none...it was hard to believe we were driving on a caribbean island, and not the outskirts of Paris.
Again, my attitude about the French needs to change...this island is the best we have seen so far....clean, attractive, buildings well maintained, excellent facilities, and great restaurants...and the french breads and pastries....and the outdoor cafe's...just such a pleasure. After the falls we headed up the east coast of Basse-Terre to Pointe-a-Pitre to check out the very nice Marina facilities there.
The foods are all French, with a great selection of inexpensive wines and cheeses....and we even had a laugh trying to speak French.
Looking forward to Hopping down to Les Saintes tommorrow (also French)...!


Apr 29th ,06
Antigua, West Indies


The next two days just flew by....busy preparing the boat, cleaning and provisioning. We found a local lady doing laundry at English Harbour...for about US$10 per load, so just dropped off our dirty sheets, towels and clothes...and returned a few hours later and it was all done....she had even washed our laundry bag (saying it was too dirty to put clean clothes into!)

Jim and Cindy's flight was delayed...and by the time they arrived we were both drunk...(well, waiting to meet them at a bar...what can one expect!....) And then we all headed back to the boat...and continued drinking....we had so much to chat about....and so much news to catch up on....I think we finished the bottle!...The next morning I regreted it...not one of my better days,...the two aspin's I took came straight back up...and even the coffee was tough to keep down.....Ahhhh its good to see old friends!!!


The entrance to Nelson's Dockyard


Cocktails help a hangover!


.. Nelsons Dockyard!


Jim was struggling with back pains after the long flight , so we had a quick walk thru Nelsons Dockyard and down to Falmouth Harbour and the Supermarket....just needing eggs and a few other things. After a stop at the Admirals Inn for some liquid refreshment we headed back to the boat. I needed a G&T to try and shake off my hangover!.
We agreed that rather than stay and watch the Antigua Classic Regatta....we'd head off sailing around the Island and explore for the week.....within the hour we were under way. We found some stunning anchorages on the north side of the island..very secluded...and pristine blue waters.


Cindy wants one, Jim!!


.. Hiro want one of these now!


.. relaxing together!

 


One of the anchorages....


Cindy's boob's keep her afloat!


..doing it island style!!


For us it was a fun, but exhausing week...pulling anchor,setting sails every day!...we usually stay put for 3 days or so, then move on to the next location....(but when you only have a week to explore)...so, we moved on every day....and Jim and Cindy were great crew and made it easy with 4 people.

Cindy loved it...constantly tweeking the sail trim, from hoisting them to pulling them down....poor Hiro was constantly busy adjusting lines...(Hiro and I usually set the sails once, and just leave them...unless we have a major wind shift)....it was a great experience for us having someone like Cindy onboard!
Jim started work on the old Mercury Outboard that needed fixing...he'd brought a new carb with him...but the sizes weren't quite the same, so he had to rebuild the old one with JB Weld....and after a couple of days it was running great!


Jim gets busy with the cardboard


Voilla....its done!! ..a gasket


..and we try to put it together..!


I think it was their second day that things started to break...for some strange reason...things just started to break...one after the other....the big outboard that we changed the impeller on, just a few weeks ago stopped pumping water again, the boarding ladder broke, the galley floor collapsed, and then the new Yanmar Engine's oil pressure sender failed....In a squal we had to drop the main in 36knots of wind...and of course it jammed and broke a couple of the glides, then the edge of the galley counter split off as the sink board slid across as we heeled over in the heavy winds....I said to Hiro this is strange that all these things go at the same time....I was starting to think Jim and Cindy had brought us bad luck....but Hiro said no...it your father....his spirit is trying to keep us here.

I have never been very spiritual or religous...but Hiro is a Buddist and believes in the spirits. He was sure the reason that we had the good( somewhat unusual) South West winds to get us to Antigua, and all the things that had happened were related to my fathers spirit... I was somewhat sceptical...to say the least.

Everything was easily repaired except for the oil pressure sensor...Jim made a new gasket out of cardboard on the beach for the water pump on the outboard, I screwed and re-glued the boarding ladder...and the galley floor, we had extra glides for the main and Jim re-glued the galley counter edge, everything was easily fixed except for the oil pressure sender.

The week flew bye, we were sad to see Jim and Cindy go,..... the boat was so quiet after they left...we'd had a great week together.


Our new AutoPilot....


Falmouth Harbour


.. a farewell dinner together


After a couple of days relaxing at the beach...life was back to normal, and we headed back to English Harbour to try and get a new oil pressure sensor.
On-route we stopped at Jolly Harbour to change out some rusted couplings on the steering cables...the first one went fine...then as we started the second...the wire itself started to split.....I was starting to think Hiro was right!
We found a replacement oil pressure sender....but it was the wrong one, so returned it the next day....the best we could do was a used one that was laying about it the mechanics shop...we tried it...cross threaded it...and then spent the rest of the day trying to get the old one back in just so we could start the engine if the winds picked up during the night.

The sensor unit wasn't critical, so after such a dismal day, we decided to listen to Chris Parkers weather and if the forcast was good head out for Guadeloupe the next morning. The Wind Guru.com's weather was also good, so we decided to go!

We pulled out at 8am, the seas looking worse than expected for the 12 to 15 knot forcast winds...but I was sure as we pulled away from the Island the seas would settle down....I couldnt have been more wrong!


Race weeks starts...


.. Whooa...watch the dink mate...


.. who's this???


The winds just kept building...we had the full main up and 30plus knots of wind....we kept letting the main out, and motor sailed to help balance the boat.... 12 foot seas were breaking off the bow and 100 gallon waves were hitting us in the cockpit..our feet swarming in white foam...for the first time ever I turned the dorade vents to stop the water entering the cabin.
Hiro kept looking back and I could sense that he wanted to turn around...even though he wasn't saying so.
After 2 hours the seas suddenly settled, and the winds dropped to 15 knots...with 4 foot seas. Hiro turned and said to me...your father has let you go.
The rest of the sail to Guadaloupe could not have been better...we made 6 plus knots the whole way...sun shining...listening to music relaxing.


Apr 15th ,06
Nevis to Antigua, West Indies

At 5am we woke to rain and dark skies, so decided to sleep for another hour and see if things improved. We finally got underway at 7.30, the wind couldnt have been a better direction...there just wasn't enough of it!!!
I was feeling as sick as a dog...as if i'd caught a cold...but i think it was phsycological...just nervous about heading back to Antigua after so many years. Hiro stayed at the helm most of the day as I slept....by the time we pulled into English Harbour, Antigua at 3 pm, I was feeling fine...and it was good to see familiar boats as we entered the anchorage....Wounded Spirit, Makers Match and Leadership were all here.
English Harbour, and Nelson's Dockyard is much prettier than I remembered...the building have all been restored and its a beautiful place now. It was good to catch up on each others news at happy hour!
Now we have 2 days to do laundry and get the boat cleaned for for Jim and Cindy's arrival on Wednesday....can't wait to see them again.


Apr 10th ,06
St. Barth's, French West Indies to St. Kitts and Nevis


With an Easterly wind of 15 knots forecast, we were looking forward to a fast tack down to St.Kitts, as we pulled out at 6.30am the winds were light, so we set all the sails....within 10 minutes, we were starting to be overpowered, with the rail dipping into the water and foam flooding the decks as the winds gusted to 25 knots.....we quickly reefed the jib and tried to get the boat under control....it was a tough 5 minutes....but finally we had all the sails trimmed correctly, and the boat balanced so we weren't heeled over too much...and we sailed at about 6 knots comfortably all the way to St Kitts....arriving at 4pm, we made it just in time to do Customs..and the staff were very helpful....but Immigration had closed, so we went into the police station in town the following morning.

What a contrast to St. Barth's....it was like being in a 3rd world country again...I have never seen any public building so dirty or in such dis-repair....and this was the main police station in the Capital City, Bassettere.
If this island wants to attract the sailing community...they really need to do better....the facilities are not cruiser friendly at all. Its such a shame because the island itself is beautiful....green hillsides and mountains that brush the clouds.

After a rolly night in the commercial harbour we did our immigration formalities and headed out in search of a good anchorage.....we spent a couple of nights at Ballast bay....but the wind swung round to the south west, and the swell satrted rolling in...so we headed out over to Nevis, looking for somewhere where we'd get a good night's sleep!

Tamirand Bay was the best spot we could find....but not great.
Chris Parkers weather forcast was looking good for a Saturday crossing, for the 50 miles to Antigua, with a South West wind it was looking like we could make it across without having to go down to Monseratt or Guadeloupe....and then back up
We pulled in near the main dock at Charlestown, dropped anchor and headed in to get fuel and do customs clearance and get our exit papers for Antigua.
As I stepped on the dock, I asked one of the locals where i could get fuel....it looked like everything was closed?. his reply was "Ahhh... its Easter Weekend..Good Friday...everything is closed!!!!" All kind of thoughts started racing thru my mind...Good Friday...that means everything will be closed thru Monday......and we have to be in Antigua by Wednesday....

Local taxi drivers started buzzing around us, wanting the fare to the gas station to get us fuel...so I asked about the customs office....the Harbour Master called for us, and to my amazement...they were open...we cleared out and headed out looking for somewhere to spend the night. The wind was still blowing South West....this was great for us...and we found a nice little beach at the back of Hurricane Hill and had the whole place to ourselves.


The view as we approached St.Kitts


...the main square Bassettere


...the clouds rolling in....

 


The clouds shrouding Nevis


.. at the beach


...relaxing on the rocks



Apr 6th ,06
Marigot Bay, St.Martin to St. Barth's, French West Indies

From Philipsburg, just 12 miles...we really didnt pay too much attention to the wind...thinking ahh, we'll be there in 2 or 3 hours.....big mistake, and a very valuable lesson to be learned!! With a strong current against us, It took us over 3 hours tacking into the wind to make the first 6 miles....and when we checked closely, it was actually 18 miles from where we were in Marigot Bay, and we should have gone around the island the other way to get a beter angle on the wind for the sail to St. Barth's....at 1pm, we realized at the rate we were going, if we didn't motor sail, we wouldnt make the remaining 12 miles before dark. Motorsailing at 6 knots, directly for St.Barth's we made the 12 miles in 2 hours and arrived just after 3pm!

St.Barth's has to be the most picturesque harbour I have ever seen...just delightful. And even though it goes against the grain for me to say so, the people were just wonderful...I have to reconsider my feelings for the French!

Stepping into the Harbour Masters air conditioned office was more like entering the lobby of a first class hotel...dark woods, art work on the panelled walls and hardwood floors...I thought I was at the wrong place...really, but when I asked, the reply couldnt have been more friendly or helpful...and Immigation was complete in five minutes...by a very informal harbour master.
I wasn't sure of our departure date or next port, saying it depended on the weather...and he just said "ahh, no problem, I'll hold your papers till you decide, and then just come back and pay your harbour fees when you check out"....

We decided to stay the weekend, and do some walking and explore the island. On our charts it looked like it was about 1 1/2 to 2 miles to a beach that looked just georgeous in the guidebook....so we set off walking....the veiws were spectacular, as we climbed hill after hill, but as the heat of the day built, and only one bottle of water between us, we decided to turn back when we saw how far it was down from the top of the hill to the beach. Pretty much exhausted from walking we decided to hitch hike back to town.... and the first car that passed stopped and picked us up.....took us to the end of the road and dropped us off as he was going in the opposite direction.....stepping out of his car, we started hitch hiking again, and the fist car to pass stopped and took us all the way back to the harbour...I must say...these French people were really very nice!

The only thing we didnt like about St.Barth's were the prices....we stopped in a cafe for lunch, free WiFi being the attraction. For 2 BLT sandwiches and 2 Beers it was $45 US....needless to say the following day we just had the beers as we did our e-mail...!!
The buildings are charming, and the streets lined with all the major boutique brands...Cartier, Gucci, Versace, Rolex, Prada...for us it was pleasant to just window shop!! The Supermarket was a treat...the selection of French produce just amazing...the cheeses and tax free French wines....needless to say we stocked up!


The view form the hill.


...and all the yachts at anchor


...taking a rest...exhausted...
!



Apr 3rd ,06
Orient Bay to Marigot Bay, St.Martin, French West Indies


We had to sail back around the Island, to Marigot bay to check out and get our clearance papers for St.Barts. Anchored in Marigot Bay we were close enough to dinghy thru the lagoon and go back to Shrimpy's for free wifi and happy hour!...and it gave us chance to talk to our friends Jim and Cindy in Texas, and book their flights to fly down to Antigua to sail with us for a week.
I had been very apprehensive about returning to Antigua, my father having died there 25 years ago...and lots of bad memories associated with Antigua, but timing wise, it was the logical place to pick up Jim and Cindy....and I guess it gave me the reason I need to go back to the island.
So, as soon as the flights were booked, we headed out for St Barts...with only 2 weeks to get to Antigua.


Lagoon entrance from the French Side


...checking out


...and shopping for T-shirts!...
!



Mar 31st,06
Orient Bay, St.Martin, French West Indies


The beach here is stunning...clean white sand about 3 miles long with a resort at each end. We chose to head for the nudist resort and enjoyed 4 days without even thinking about clothes....the shops, bars, restaurants...everywhere is clothing optional....and the bay is protected by a reef to make the waters calm. We anchored in just 7 feet of water...over soft sand....prepared our coctails and ice, and I headed to the beach in the dinghy and Hiro by Kayak. After 4 days of just lazing on the beach enjoying the sun...we decided it was time to move on.


The beach just goes on...


...and on.....


...and on...
!



Mar 30th,06
Simpson Bay, St.Martin, Dutch West Indies to French West Indies


After checking out of the Dutch Side we dinghied over to the French Side to check-in....arriving just after they had closed for lunch...so that gave us a couple of hours to explore the French Town and Marigot Bay....at 2pm with our papers stamped we headed back to say our goodbye's to friends anchored close by...saying we'll be seeing you down island!.....
At the 4.30pm bridge opening we headed out of the lagoon and anchored in the bay outside....a very rolly night...so early the next morning we headed out for Orient Bay...and we were all set and anchored, ready for the beach by 10am!


More Mega Yachts


Heading out from Simpson Lagoon


...Wounded Spirit behind us
!



Mar 22nd,06
Simpson Bay, St.Martin, Dutch West Indies

The seas on the passage to St Martin had been worse than the weather forcast had suggested, so even motor sailing short tacks into the wind, it still took us 18hours. By the time we had put the dinghy in, and attached the engine, and motored in to Immigration...it was 4.20pm....but, open till 5pm, I thought no problem. Just as we stepped thru the door the immigration officer announced that she had to leave, and asked us to return at 8am the following morning....stressing 8am 4 times.
At 8.30 the next morning we returned to Immigration...only to wait another hour for this lady to show up....no appology for being late...4 people waiting in line. (what is it with immigration officials...????)

St.Martin is nothing like the BVI's....this is a Mega Yacht Mecca....there must be at least 40 huge mega yachts tied off here. And hundreds of cruisers anchored in Simpon Bay Lagoon also. The facilities here are second to none...a sailors paradise...everything you can think of.. at tax free prices.


Sunday morning, free beers and hotdogs... the swap meet at Shrimpy's


Mega Yachts...10 in a row..!


...they're everywhere..!!


On day 2 we found the discout marine store and both bought new toys...Hiro a Kayak, and me a new Generator!
Pulling into Simpson Bay Lagoon it was good to see our friends, Howard and Suzanne of "Leadership", and Hoyt and Lola of "Wounded Spirit"...we dropped anchor close by...in this busy, but fully protected anchorage.


Suzanne and Baby Sam at 3 months..


...Hiro's new Toy...


...and Des' new toy!!


After a few more days we are going to check out of the Dutch side of the Island, then dinghy accros the lagoon and check into the French side...and then pull out and go sail around tothe French side of the island. After exploring in a renal car we know exactly where we want to go, ....Orient Bay and Tintemarre Island look so inviting...
Marigot, on the French side was....what can I say...very French!!..beautiful charming place, but, to my mind, would improve immensely if the Frogs left.


Marigot Harbour....


...and its cocktail time again!


...Orient beach


Watching the planes land while having lunch at the beachside bar at Sunset Beach was an experience....the jet blast from the engines literally blows things/people off the beach as planes takeoff and land.
Sunbathers tend to stay to either one side or the other...everyone with camera in hand...as a plane almost lands on top of them!!....just look at these pictures!


Watching the planes...


...going right over the beach...


...and onto the runway!.



Mar 21st,06
Leverick Bay, BVI's to Simpson Bay, St.Martin, Dutch West Indies

As we pulled out in the dark I was nervous about passing the reef at the entrance chanel...but with the chart plotter, and chanel markers keeping me on course, we were soon out...and heading between Richard Branson's private Necker Island and Eustatia Sound...(another mass of reefs)...it was about 50 minutes before we were clear and in open waters,.... and I could relax. The moon was bright but the wind was blowing 18 to 20 knots, and the swell 6 to 8 feet.
Hiro took the first 3 hour watch, and then Jim the next, so I got to "sleep" till 5am...our usual cruising pattern is 3 hours on.. 3 off...and on a long passage this gets very hard towards the end...never getting enough sleep...but not this time...with Jim on board (an experienced sailor), I was comfortable to let him stand watch, and it was like cruising in first class for us, getting a good rest/sleep!.... 6 hours off and then 3 on. The whole 18hour trip was only 2 shifts each!
Next time we do a long passage we need extra crew.....anyone interested let me know at the contact us link!!


Hiro on watch...


ashore for lunch


...trying to grill dinner.



Mar 20th,06
Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour to Virgin Gorda North Sound, Leverick Bay, BVI's

After going ashore to check out of the BVI's, we made our way to Leverick Bay in Virgin Gorda North Sound....we would wait here for good weather for the 18hour passage to St.Martin.
After listening to Chris Parker's weather... we relaxed the first night, and decided to head out the following evening, departing at 10pm for a 3 to 4 pm arrival in St.Martin.


Leverick Bay


trying to get a WIFI signal


...hotdogs for the passage....



Mar 19th,06
Trellis Bay to The Baths to Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour,BVI's

The weather couldn't have been better...but the wind was right on the nose, so we motored over to The Baths....anchoring just off the beach...there were yachts everywhere...cruisers, charter boats...there must have been 50 boats at anchor !
As we dinghy'd ashore, we noticed signs on the beach saying "NO DINGHY'S"....everyone was tied off to line between mooring bouys, and then swam ashore.
These rules had kept the beaches in pristine condition...after exploring the caves we relaxed on the white sand beaches.
This place is a "must see"...I quicky realized why there were so many boats at anchor here!
Bye the time we pulled out at 4pm, most of the boats had left....we headed for Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour, just an hour away, and anchored in the Bay.


Des and Jimmy....


....Hiro ....weight lifting


... and then relaxing



Mar 18th,06
Trellis Bay, BVI's

We pulled anchor for the 30min motor over to Trellis Bay at 9am. Before 10 we were anchored just off the airport runway!
After a trip ashore to stock up on essential foods (everything was outrageously expensive)... Then we went to the airport, just across the road, to meet Jim who was going to be sailing with us to St.Martin. It was great to chat and catch up on new...and then the next morning we pulled out for Virgin Gorda.


Found these checking the anchor


Hiro...you knapping again?....


Cheers....



Mar 16 to 17th,06
Marina Cay, BVI's

With just a couple of days before Jimmy's arrival, (our first guest to be staying/sailing with us on the boat )...it was time to get busy! We pulled into Marina Cay, anchored just off the fuel dock, and then made several trips with the Jerry Jugs to top off the fuel and water....the guys at the fuel dock were great...very friendly...left my tab open as I made 3 trips back to the boat...the total bill only $165 !!...nearly $5 a gallon for Diesel, and 16 cents a gallon for water!
As I was paying the bill, I saw Stazia of "To Us"...last time we'd talked was at Jost Van Dyke, just a few days earlier...but its always great to run into friends, so we arranged to have cocktails at the Marina Cay bar.....its such a hard life!!

The next day we really got to work, did all the laundry... vacumed and cleand the boat from bow to stern...it was the cleanest I'd seen the boat in a long time!


Marina Cay Fuel Dock


...as the sun goes down


.. sunset from the bar.



Mar 14 to 16th,06
Jost Van Dyke to Lee Bay, BVI's

Knowing that our friend Jimmy from Miami would be flying in to Tortola on the 18th, we decided to head that way while the weather was good. We pulled out Monday morning, firstly thinking that we'd go back to Soppers hole to top off the fuel and water tanks, do laundry etc....but the wind was better for going down towards the airport.
As we approached Guana Island, we looked at the anchorage and decided to keep going...thru past Monkey Point, and anchored on the west side of Great Camanoe, in Lee bay.
As we neared there were 3 other boats at anchor....a georgeous quiet little bay...but by nightfall there were 11 boats... plenty of space for everyone...so we decided to stay another night....just a couple of miles from the airport.
The snorkeling was wonderful...and the waters just so pristine...and no swell in the little bay...it was perfect!...diving off the side of the boat into clear blue waters!


great snorkeling...


..and swarms of fish


...and pelicans eating them!.

 


....at Foxy's


at the bar again????


...another sunset at Jost Van Dyke.



Mar 11th, 06
Coral Bay to Road Town Harbour, Tortola, BVI's

Our check-in to the BVI's was straight forward, the customs guys were friendly and courteous but the immigration lady had so much attitude weighing her down, I was surprised she could stand up....just about damn right rude.... we didnt want any hassle with immigration so just kept smiling and being polite. We left Road Town Harbour less than an hour after pulling in....this lady had left a sour taste. Headed for Soppers Hole...but then decided to carry on to Jost Van Dyke.
After 3 days anchored in Great Harbour, and with the party atmosphere of Foxy"s Bar and Restaurant....we just love it


Downwind from Road Town


too much sun...???


...another sunset.


Mar 8th, 06
Caneel Bay to Coral Bay


Francis Bay was looking good....but mooring only, so sailed around the island to Coral Bay, Coral Harbour. A wonderful place for cruisers....two beers for $3 at happy hour!...anchoring OK....and a dinghy dock, and supermarkets within walking distance!
After spending the afternoon with Charles, we returned to the dinghy dock a little drunk...standing on the dock looking for our dinghy, an approaching boat shouted "hey, whats up guys...cant remember where you left your dinghy"....kind of in a Frozen Margaritta daze...sure we had tied the dinghy off there...we said to the next approaching couple...."we've lost our dinghy...we left it here a few hours ago.....and its gone".
Now we were starting to worry....to loose a dinghy on a small island...no spare...no transportation....all of this was running thru my mind....not to mention another $3,000 for a new dink and motor!...even if we could find one.
The dinghy had been locked with padlock and wire rope...and the were much nicer dinghy's than ours that seemed to be untouched...so i figured that it probably hadnt been stolen....in broad daylight, mid afternoon at a busy dinghy dock.
The only option I could think of was that somehow it had floated away.....I said to Hiro, "are you sure you locked the dinghy"......"yes, absolutely, tugged on the line to check it'...
After a 30 minute walk to the windward side of the bay....guess what we found washed up on the rocks???...our dinghy, fully intact with wire rope....only thing missing was a padlock!!
So happy we had found the dinghy, we went out to dinner to celebrate!


Wild Donkey's looking for food


Coral Bay....


......another view.